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Tuesday, October 30, 2012
The Current Trend/Show Report @ 4:14 AM
Trend/Show Report Spring Summer 2013
The spring summer 2013 ready-to-wear fashion
shows in New York, London, Paris and Milan showed an abundance of different
trends. Some of the most abundant ones being neon’s, stripes, Mesh, White, and Metallic’s.
Throughout these trends there are variations across all of the shows and
cities, and show the designers and brands image, style and design aesthetic.
In London the neon trend was more prominent than
in New York, Paris and Milan. Designers such as Simone Rocha, Erdem, Mathew Williamson,
Antonio Berardi, and David Koma captured the bights most powerfully. At Simone
Rocha, the collection started quite calmly with whites and blacks, however
towards the end of the 30piece collection, there was a strong injection of neon
lime and neon coral dresses, coats and bags. At Erdem, the neon’s and bright
flashes of colour were seen throughout the entire show. The neon, although
equally as bright, appeared more toned down, as the pinks, yellows and oranges
were used more as a print rather than a solid colour. In Milan the neon trend
transferred into the makeup, as the models wore a fluorescent pink, by MAC.
Along side the neon makeup at Missoni, and the clothing being equally as bright
as in London, the fluoro colour also translated into the shoe. Bright orange
ankle straps, on a nude court shoe, pulled the entire look together. At Proenza
Schouler in New York, the show, unlike the others, started with a bang of neon,
and then as the collected progressed did not die down. Bright cherry reds,
which had not been seen in London or Milan cut through by looks with neon green
geometric shapes. At the Paris shows Chalayan brought a pop of neon into his
collection, by using the highlighter green, orange and yellow more as an
accent, rather than dressing the models from head to toe in brightly coloured
garments.
No white after Labour Day? In the spring summer
shows 2013, this rule seems to be disregarded by a multitude of designers, in Milan
as well as at the other ready-to-wear shows for spring summer 2013. White
leather, white fringe, white shoes, dresses and trousers, all make an
appearance in the classic silhouettes that are iconic
of the designers showing in. Roberto Cavalli, Jil Sander and Emilio Pucci all
show classic tailored shapes, along side more modern cuts. Whilst Topshop
Unique in London has some very classic pieces that could be mistaken for Jil
Sander, the whites are a lot sheerer and less heavy than those in Milan. In
Paris, Chanel showed full white garments as well, however adding
embellishments, over top of the base fabrics, altered the trend of minimalistic
white garments. Within the Parisian collections white was not as strong as a
trend as in Milan and New York, however did play a major role, within the more
monochromatic collections, such as Ghesquière’s
collection for Balenciaga.
Horizontal, vertical, diagonal as well as any
variation on a striped print and graphic surfaced at all of the fashion weeks.
The stripe trend is a fashion week staple throughout all of the cities as well
as seasons. Last season it was Miu Mius turn, the season before that Céline‘s. This season the colours, direction,
length and width all varied from designer to designer, but the essence of the
striped trend stayed the same. Marc Jacobs, Tommy Hilfiger lead the trend. Tommy
Hilfiger’s extremely eye catching vertical and diagonal stripes, in royal
blues, primary red and white, instantly reminded of the sailor trend. The
stripes were bolder on the oversized suit jackets and trousers, and thinner
lines on the more delicate garments, such as the tops and dresses. Also in New
York Marc Jacobs used the same style of stripes as well as materials, shapes
and types of garments to bring his point of view across. Although the thickness
and style of stripes were almost identical between the two, the colours
differed. Marc Jacobs used a lot of blacks and whites to steer away from the
sailor look, and push the striped trend more towards the sixties. Stripes also
were seen in Paris, Milan and London, however it seemed that New York’s stripes
were bolder than the others, with exception of Dolce & Gabbana in Milan,
where the stripes were horizontal rather than vertical.
New York and Paris showed a vast variety of mesh.
This trend was seen in all of the major shows, such as at Helmut Lang, Jason
Wu, Céline, Stella McCartney and at Alexander McQueen. Helmut Lang incorporated
mesh into almost all of the looks, by using the fabric in different aspects of
the garments, as well as in different amounts. Cut outs around the shoulder
area, the legs and the waist seemed to be a reoccurring theme. At the Parisian
shows Stella McCartney used a similar approach to Helmut Lang, however the mesh
was a white colour, rather than a skin-toned shade as it was in the Lang show. Céline
incorporated the mesh trend, by using honeycomb mesh, as well as mesh more like
that at Helmut Lang’s show, exclusively on the upper body. In Milan the mesh
was used as a complimentary draped fabric over the top of the main silhouette. Georgio
Armani embellished the mesh, to make it look more ethereal and movement, in
comparison to the collections in the other cities, where the mess functioned
more as a structural and graphic element.
Last but not least, Metallic’s were brought from
last season, into spring summer 2013. Metallic bomber jackets, trousers, tops,
skirts. Everything. Alexander Wang stuck to silver jackets and jumpers, where
as Burberry Prorsum went all out by using metallic materials in gold, pinks,
purples, green and blue shades. These ranged from tops and skirts, to dresses
coats and even bags. The Burberry Prorsum collection was by no means subtle in comparison
to Alexander Wang. Markus Lupfer chose to use subtle moss green metallic as
well as a more muted silver. The dresses also have a more subtle shape, and the
collection seems more timeless, despite the metallics.
These five trends were by no means the only
trends shown this spring summer 2013, however some of the most prominent, and
likely to be the most influential throughout the year, as
well as transfer onto the high street as well as into future seasons.